Toward a More Inclusive New York Fashion Week

10:30:00 AM


In 2018, I was lucky enough to be able to attend my first (and second!) New York Fashion Week show. As a non-fashionista, it was really an honor.

The first one I attended was for three designers: Nathalia Gaviria, Eman Idil Bare, and Charles and Ron. I was there as a +1, and my friend was actually a VIP guest for Charles and Ron, which meant that we got to sit in the front row!

Nathalia Gaviria

Nathalia Gaviria is based in Los Angeles. The designer is largely known for her first two collections, NG: Black and NG: Gold, which are marketed as gender fluid/androgynous. Their spring collection gave off heavy Game of Thrones vibes. The pieces were flowy but with enough unique lines and shapes to feel structured. There was a lot of gold and silver jewelry and head gear, but I think it mostly complemented the overall feel and look well, adding some edge to the loose clothing.

Eman Idil Bare

The second designer, Eman Idil Bare, is probably my favorite of the all the ones I saw this NYFW. She is a designer, law student, award-winning journalist, and yoga teacher. Her line is ethically sourced and designed (with the help of female refugees in Canada), and you could tell that every part of her NYFW debut was purposeful. A Black, hijabi Muslim woman, you could tell that her designs are for women of color--and especially Black and/or Muslim women--by a woman of color. She hired all Black models and showcased both their dark skin and their natural hair. Many wore sparkling crowns and each exuded a different type of confidence. The clothes themselves were colorful, loose but structured, and very flattering. I don't know if I can explain what I mean when I say that it was obvious that the whole show was for Black women, by a Black woman, but it bled through every aspect. It was an honor to witness that power and strength, capped by the beautiful musical performance by Lula Saleh to close the second portion of the show.



            

Charles and Ron

Then, it was finally time for the designers I was technically at the event for. Charles and Ron are Maltese designers, and that identity is clearly infused in their designs. The music for the show was by a popular Maltese band called The Travelers. My friend, who is Maltese, lit up the moment she heard the song begin to play. You can also glean the country's island geography and feel from the colors of their clothes and accessories. It's bright, colorful, and emulates the perfect bright, summer beach day vibe. Additionally, their new designs feature images that used to be on Maltese coins.


Final Thoughts, pt. 1

I got to briefly meet the Charles, Ron, and their team after the show, which was such a privilege. Honestly, for my first ever Fashion Week show, it was an incredible experience. To also be able to sit front row is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I had literally thrown together my outfit the night before when my friend invited me to the show. I only had whatever I had brought to the dorms, so I had to work with what I had. I can't speak to Nathalia Gaviria's work, but I loved how the other two designers' work was deeply based on the celebration of their identity. You could tell that they were designs made by people that have it close to their heart.

Kovasky (Knockout) by Minika Ko

A short while later, I was also invited to the Kovasky by Minika Ko show hosted at Peridance Capezio Center. The show was sponsored by the Taiwanese Junior Chamber of Commerce New York (TJCCNY). As a dancer, I thought it was so awesome that the show was hosted at Peridance and that it featured two dancers, one Venezuelan-Italian and the other Taiwanese. The show also showcased the New Asia Chamber Music Society and jewelry and an art installation by Taiwanese artists. They even had pineapple cakes, one of the quintessential Taiwanese snacks.


The Kovasky Knockout Collection is truly one that can appeal to a wide audience but especially for young professionals. The designs themselves are minimalistic, professional but with enough edginess to also feel young and fashionable, and flattering. Most of the designs come in red, black, and white, and they really vary in look. Some pieces are much more suitable for traditional office environments, sitting somewhere between business casual and professional. Other pieces show more skin or include mesh portions. There are also capes (including ones with a giant tiger printed on the back), chic hoodie-style tops and dresses, and more.


The modeling cast was diverse. The clothing is high performance, low maintenance, and in the medium price range. Ko pitches her line as being envisioned for a female 007 (James Bond), and one can get that sense from her designs.


Having gotten some background knowledge on the creation of the Fashion Week show, I know how much Ko values supporting and crediting diverse artists. While her clothing is for a generic female audience, one can see the care she puts into the work, and with the Knockout line in particular, the embroidery is East Asian inspired and seeks to bridge Western style with Eastern art. I think this is a wonderful tribute to Ko's own roots and shows how deeply her Taiwanese identity influences her work.


Final Thoughts

The fashion world is still incredibly white, abled, cis, and otherwise catered to non-marginalized communities. But there have always been artists, designers, creators at the margins who are doing amazing work. They are just finally starting to get their due. Even if their work isn't explicitly for their community, they are clearly influenced by their identity, experiences, etc. We need to be better at supporting designers of color, designers with marginalized identities in creating work for their communities. We also need to be working to support models of all different shapes, sizes, identities, etc. I was glad that my first two New York Fashion Week shows gave a taste of high fashion but grounded in a sense of belonging and home, of embracing who we are. Here's to continuing forward to a more inclusive New York Fashion Week and fashion world more generally.

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